Coldean - Bevendean History Project
Coldean in Early Times
Why Coldean?
The Prehistoric era covers c.75,000 BC – 43 AD
So why did our ancestors choose Coldean to establish a settlement?The Prehistoric era covers c.75,000 BC – 43 AD
The name Cold Dean (now Coldean) has Anglo Saxon origins, Cold from the Anglian/Old English 'Cald/Ceald = cold/coldness and Dean Anglo Saxon for valley = Cold Valley.
There has been human activity in the area through the Palaeolithic (8,500 BC), Mesolithic and Neolithic periods. This latter period saw the establishment of the hill settlement known as ‘Whitehawk Camp’. This was located in the area of Brighton Racecourse, where the stands are today, would have been contained within the site during the Bronze, Iron and Romano British periods.
It would appear the Coldean settlement was established in the Bronze Age (3rd and 2nd centuries BC).
So why would they choose our valley?
It's only conjecture but, if you apply logic the following factors come to mind:
1. It is secluded, being a side valley off the main valley, now the. Lewes Road.
2. It is sheltered from the prevailing south westerly winds.
3. It has fresh water supply, there are still springs that occasionally bubble up in the garden of the vicarage. There was a stream (borne) running down the valley, this existed in living memory. It is almost certain that the route Coldean Lane takes was dictate by the course of this stream, when the 1950's estate was constructed, this was covered over to form a drainage system.
4. We think of the convenience of easy access to the A27 bypass.
Think of the Southdowns Way as their version of the A27/M27.
The ridgeway leading from what is now known as Ditchling Beacon to the coast, passing along the ridge above Coldean. These roads tended to be built on elevated positions to give early warning of danger and to be well drained.
5. The surrounding woodland on the Downs was cleared in the Neolithic period when farming was established.
6. Far enough inland to not be bothered by seaborne invaders.
This settlement lasted from the Bronze Age through the Iron Age into the Romano British periods, so up to the 5th century AD.
If you apply landscape archaeology techniques and stand at a vantage point and look down at the western end of the valley, following the contours of the land imagining the buildings roads etc. are not there. In your mind’s eye, you may be able to visualise a large collection of buildings, depending on the period mostly round houses, in the Romano British there would have been some rectangular ones.
Sites of early settlements in Coldean
There was one in what is now Ingham Drive. Looking to the right of what is now Coldean Lane, on the Varley Halls location were a series of house platforms terraced into the hillside. Further up where the bypass crosses Coldean Lane, on the site of the old Downs Special School evidence of a large round house was found (see photos) with enough detail to reconstruct one at Michelham Priory along with a smaller one that appeared to have been covered in hides and was probably used for storage.
Round House constructed at Michelham Priory
You would also have seen a number of burial mounds on the hill leading up to Ditchling Road, overlooking the settlement.
HOLLINGBURY FORT/CAMP/CASTLE call it what you like.
Due to its proximity to Coldean, mention must be made of this structure. Over the years there have been various theories about its purpose. It was definitely built as a secure enclosure covering up to 9 acres.
This building is based on archaeological evidence uncovered during the construction of the Brighton Bypass in 1991. This building was part of a small Late Bronze Age (900 – 700 BC) settlement located just below the ridge of the chalk Downland where the bypass runs over the top of Coldean Lane.
Layout of late Bronze age Round House 900BC
The building was set on a platform cut into a south facing slope looking towards the coast. Most houses in this period were 5 - 9 meters in diameter; this building, at only 3 meters, was unusually small. It also had several features which suggest it was constructed differently to larger buildings. It had no internal post holes and the wall stake holes in the ground were set very close together. There was also a rainwater gully cut to the rear of the building just outside the line of the wall.
These features suggest that the building was woven from very fine material and that the roof was an extension of the wall and was probably formed in a beehive shape. The proximity of the rainwater gulley indicates that the building was covered in a thin material which shed water much faster than thatch normally does. It is possible that the building was covered in animal hides sewn onto the woven framework. This reconstruction has been built using a wooden sill as a base in order to avoid disturbing this archaeologically sensitive area.
The excavation revealed that the building was set next to a larger structure which was some 6 meters in diameter. This larger building was almost certainly a house. We have reconstructed the house on the far side of the moat walk, and it is interesting to compare the techniques and materials used in the two buildings.
A reconstruction building is being built by members of the public and staff from the Sussex Archaeological Society under a Skills For the Future (SFF) programme funded by the Heritage lottery Fund.
[If you would like to know any more about this project, please Christabel Shelley, SFF Officer, on 01273 480 163, or email
sffofficer@sussexpast.co.uk]
It would appear that throughout its long life it has had various uses, there is evidence of five round houses with artefacts located in the southwest corner that point to there being a farm within its precincts. The interior is dotted with sunken pits, which were originally thought to be dwellings but now are considered to be storage pits for grain etc. It was probably used as a secure storage facility. In the Romano-British period there is evidence of a temple. Its proximity, probably indicates it was used as a place of refuge in times of threat.
From this vantage point it would have been possible to see activity from a number of other such structures at Ditchling Beacon, Wolstonbury Hill, Devils Dyke, Chanctonbury and Cissbury Rings, Whitehawk and Mount Caburn.
Bearing in mind that the total population of Britain in the Bronze Age has been estimated to be between 20,000 to 100,000, contrast this with Brighton & Hove Albion's Amex Stadium's capacity of 31,800!
These people would have part of the Atrebates Tribe (attrebf = settlement and ate' - they who. Thus 'they who form settlements' or 'the settlers'). After 80 AD the area was divided up and during the Romano-British time it was called the Regni (People of the King).
After the 5th century this settlement seemed to end and it appeared to return to pastoral land. In 765 AD King Ealdwulf of Sussex granted a charter to Hunlaf, this was an early mention of Stanmer. At one time the south side of Coldean Lane was part of Hogshrove Farm, at the time Hogshrove was a hamlet in Moulsecomb and was mentioned in the Doomsday Book (1086 AD). The north side belonging to Stanmer Estate. As this estate expanded a farm was established in Coldean, a 18th Century farmhouse was built by the Earl of Chichester, the Pelham Family, (who purchased the estate in 1713 AD) it was colloquially known as the Menagerie, apparently this is where some of the families animals were kept. The barn on the opposite side of Coldean Lane was built in the late 18th century, it was a 'Chaff or Threshing' barn, later converted to the church we know and love, St Mary Magdalen. The foundation stone was laid on 2nd April 1955 and dedicated by the Bishop of Lewes on 20th December 1955.
Finally, the junction at the top of Coldean Lane where it meets Ditchling Road is known as 'Old Boat Corner'. This is because a beach fishing boat was taken there, cut in half and stood on end to form a weatherproof shelter. There are two accounts of who this was done for.
1) Back in the day the inhabitants of Stanmer House would take a stroll through the grounds/woods, a favourite was climbing to the top of the hill to the above junction which offered views to the west as far as the Isle of Wight. Not benefitting from the weather forecasting we have today, they would sometimes get caught out and would get wet waiting for rescue by carriage or walking back, so this structure meant they had somewhere to shelter.
2) It was to provide a refuge for shepherd(s). Probably, both were true, the latter was the original purpose and the Pelhams et- al took advantage of it.
This brings us up to living memory.
The Park Estate construction started in the 1930's with the south end of the estate near the Lewes Road. Then in the post war period this was expanded northwards as a low rise garden estate, homes fit for hero's which morphed into the village we know and love today.
Text and pictures from David Whitmore
